Soho in summer can get pretty unpleasant – warm pavements, overflowing streets, and no way near enough shade for everyone that needs it. The Black Book is the sophisticated response to all of that: a bar sunk below street level, where the temperature drops and the wine list gets serious.
Founded by Master Sommeliers Gearoid Devaney and Xavier Rousset, the credentials cannot be denied. The selection ranges from considered everyday glasses to coveted bottles on what they call their ‘Black Book’ list – a term that doubles as a concept, the owners’ actual working relationship with growers and suppliers distilled into something you can order by the glass. Curious drinkers find an entry point that doesn’t require a second mortgage; those who know exactly what they’re looking for will find it too, at prices that are genuinely hard to argue with. The cocktails hold their own alongside it, mixed with the same level of attention.
The draw for my visit was the launch of Executive Chef Rob Weston’s new small plates menu. The small plates are built to sit alongside whatever you came to drink – the pea and mint arancini and Cajun crispy squid with sriracha mayo doing exactly that, while the charcuterie and cheese boards keep the table occupied deep into the evening.
Somehow though, even amongst the balanced small plates, the perfectly curated wine list, the burger shines through. I was lucky enough to enjoy their off-menu brie and truffle special, something truly decadent, alongside a glass of Cuvée H from Clos de la Barthassade. But the menu includes brisket, a burger and a steak, so if you want something significant, you’ll be well looked after.
The Black Book holds a late licence, with membership available to hospitality industry workers and beyond – granting access after 1am, with two guests in tow. As a place to take a date, impress someone with a good palate, or simply disappear from a Soho summer evening, it works on every level.
