Driving up the winding road that leads toward Vila Santa Teresa, it feels like you have entered the gates to a secret empire. A former family home turned boutique hotel, Vila Santa Teresa is an exquisite seven-bedroom property that sits atop five hectares of private land in the heights of Santa Teresa. This regal house is immersed in greenery; the gentle swooshing of the countless species of vegetation that make up the gardens are the only audible sounds here, perched on top of the world. Gone are the car horns and constant barulho of Rio’s streets.
The surrounding panoramic vistas of Rio de Janeiro’s skylines have to be seen to be believed – sunrises and sunsets are equally as staggering from this vantage point. Such was the desire of the Monteiro de Carvalho family patriarch, who had the property built for his family from the ground up in the 1970s (he bought the land in the 1920s). From the hotel’s pool area, which boasts what must surely be one of Rio’s most privileged views, Rio’s iconic Pão de Açucar – or Sugarloaf Mountain – looks positively diminutive. Christ the Redeemer can be seen clear as day atop the neighbouring mountain, standing only ever so slightly higher than the hotel itself, and always enshrouded by at least a smattering of fast-moving, wispy little clouds that add to the drama of the vista.
Guests are greeted with an ice-cold coconut water served in a delicate tumbler, finished with mint leaves and a fresh slice of lime. Instantly, the exquisite service is relaxed and friendly, welcoming each guest as a temporary family member for the duration of their stay. Indeed, to enter the property’s front door is to enter a stately Brazilian family home. Every conceivable door and window is flung open, allowing an incredible breeze to wash through the downstairs communal areas. The choice of white, light furniture lends the house an atmosphere of eternal summer; even a rainy day here would feel like a summer holiday.
The property only transformed into a boutique hotel six years ago, and the essence of the original family home is tangible. The bottom floor is open plan: the entrance hall leads both into the property’s minute, green and dark panelled speakeasy-style Alberto bar, as well as the vast living room, which in turn leads into the outdoor pool area. Also accessible from the entrance hall and the living room is the property’s adorable Beatriz restaurant, which is located in the former dining room. Every room is a space to be enjoyed, complemented by impeccable décor throughout.
Outside, tables that overlook the show stopping view invite guests to dine al fresco. Top tip: Restaurant Beatriz is not exclusive to hotel guests, making it perhaps Rio’s best-kept secret for a special occasion. Three courses at lunch or dinner will set you back R$ 245,00 (£32) and R$ 345,00 (£45) respectively. Chef David Mansaud, ex-Copacabana Palace, and Roland Villard, ex-Le Pré Catelan, work their magic in the kitchen to fuse French and Brazilian flavours, creating dishes such as shrimp bisque topped with puff pastry (a tropical en-croute) and crêpe Suzette made with Camaru, an Amazon-native fruit.
Dishes are creative and unique, and the portions notably generous. Standouts include the grilled octopus with black rice, wasabi mayonnaise and confit tomato, and a mouthwatering, oozy mini chocolate tart, finished with Camaru crême anglaise, Bourbon, and branded with delicate gold leaf VST lettering. The wine list features some excellent Brazilian options, such as the sparkling Brut that competes with some of the top English sparkling wines on the market.
After dinner, a retreat to the spacious bedrooms means enjoying one of the highlights of the VST experience: the magnificent beds. Drenched in a plush VST dressing gown, curtains open onto a sparkling Rio de Janeiro skyline at night, it feels criminal not to watch a programme courtesy of the hotel’s multiple TV subscriptions, before sinking into a luxurious sleep.
Breakfast at Vila Santa Teresa is an experience in itself. Guests can sit outdoors and drink in the view, while the waiters bring round after round of freshly-made treats to the table. On offer are all manner of breakfast goodies: fresh fruit, yogurt and granola, cold cheeses and meats, jams and spreads, and even an entire brioche loaf, still warm from its bake. After feasting on the cold options, guests can tuck into the hot food menu, too.
For those interested, the property features a petite spa with a wide range of treatments on offer. Most unique to the property, however, is the list of special activities that range from helicopter rides (the hotel has its very own, discrete helipad – the only hotel to boast one in the city), to an exclusive breakfast in the vegetable garden, or a picnic in the hotel grounds.
To stay at Vila Santa Teresa is to be immersed in green, surrounded by breathtaking views and doted on by flawless service. In this luscious, secluded space high above Rio de Janeiro, there is a magic in the air that has to be felt to be understood.
R. Alm. Alexandrino, 2305 – Santa Teresa, Rio de Janeiro – RJ, 20241-264, Brazil
