Rio’s bohemian heart lies in the hills of Santa Teresa, which has often been compared to Lisbon thanks to its iconic yellow trams and steep, winding streets. High above the city’s postcard beaches and the hum of the streets below, this historic neighbourhood has a totally different feel to the more mainstream areas in Zona Sul. If it’s a stylish city getaway you’re after in Rio de Janeiro, Santa Teresa boasts numerous boutique homestay-style hotels. An exemplary option is the seven-suite, urban-chic Chez Georges.
Hidden from plain sight on one of Santa Teresa’s many narrow streets, Chez Georges’ address will take you to an unassuming garage door. After ringing the doorbell, you’ll be invited to take a lift to the third floor, where this unique guesthouse begins to unfold. The front courtyard comprises an exceptionally tasteful front garden, adorned with all manner of towering tropical greenery and a striking Brutalist pergoda made from concrete, whose striped shadow makes for a dramatic entrance.
Chez Georges is the project of French owner Pierre Bident Moldeva, who began to transform an old Colonial style building, typical of the Santa Teresa area, into a modern home in 2016. Three years later, the property opened as Chez Georges guesthouse.
Hidden behind the hotel’s lush front garden is the original front door to the house, which looks like something out of the set of Indiana Jones’ Tomb Raider. Inside, wooden interiors designed by Yorick Piette and complemented by vast, back-to-back windows and high ceilings, flood the property with light and lend the space an almost Alpine feel.
Decor is retro and playful; record players, a variety of musical instruments, including a cello, a saxophone and a piano, and all manner of games and design books, lie in wait in the shared spaces for the amusement of guests. All around the house, vintage furniture hails from all corners of Europe, and is accompanied by contemporary Brazilian pieces that lend the space a decidedly Tropical Modernist aesthetic.
The property boasts two main living areas, both of which look onto the outdoor patio and pool area, which in turn leads into gaping views of the jungle that lies outside the property’s walls. Beyond the jungle, inhabited by monkeys, toucans and all manner of exotic species, is a breathtaking view of Sugarloaf Mountain.
The design hotel’s seven suites are spacious and the beds are vast, while the bathrooms are relatively simple and no-frills. Each bedroom is named after a famous musician named George or a variant of the same name, from George Harrison to George Benson, to Brazil’s Jorge Ben Jor and Seu Jorge. In the same vein, an in-house recording studio attracts artists from all over the country and beyond, in the most low-key manner imaginable. The recording studio can be used by all guests, provided no artist has got there first.
Tranquility flows through this boho guesthouse, which is markedly still and quiet, not least because of its ratio of guests to space. This is a hotel for those who want to escape the noise of Rio’s beaches and busy streets, or who simply prefer a peaceful alternative where they can meet other like-minded (and effortlessly stylish) guests.
Breakfast, which you can eat on shared tables either inside or outside, is delivered to the table personally. Each guest is treated to their very own spread of fresh coffee, a basket of homemade breads (whose crowning jewel is an excellent pão de queijo, still warm from the oven), seasonal fruit, your choice of eggs, homemade jams, and cold meats and cheeses. There is also a mini buffet where you can try fresh fruit juices or freshly baked cakes that differ each day.
A communal kitchen is a space for guests to use and enjoy, but also where the next day’s breakfast treats are cooked up by the property’s chef each evening. You could be mistaken for considering Chez Georges a high-end hostel, since communal living is effortlessly fostered and encouraged by the hotel’s shared areas, and absolutely nothing about the property is over the top or inauthentic. There isn’t a restaurant or bar, but BYOB is permitted, and you can buy a small selection of refreshments on-site.
Outside, guests can recline around the pool and soak up sprawling views over Sugarloaf Mountain and the city below. There is a strong feeling of privacy in this outdoor area that makes it hard to recall the hubbub of the world beneath. In fact, Chez Georges lies in the very centre of Santa Teresa, in the heart of the action.
Cultivar, one of Rio’s best – but perhaps the most unassuming – açaí and pão de queijo establishments is a two minute walk away. Boutique shops such as La Vareda and micro galleries abound, as do some excellent restaurants such as Bar do Mineiro, where you can try one of Rio’s most famous feijoadas, and Aprazível, which is widely praised for its modern takes on Brazilian classics.
Each Saturday, live performances by the much revered Samba Do Guimaraes are so close they’re virtually in Chez Georges’ front garden, while a five minute walk will take you to the adorable Mô Café in one direction, and cosy, bustling bars such as Novooeste or Bar dos Descasados in the other.
To round off the experience, Chez Georges’ staff are so friendly that it isn’t uncommon to enter into a twenty minute conversation at any given moment. All of this contributes to the property’s welcoming atmosphere and endearing personality, and makes the hotel feel profoundly like a home. Staying here offers an insight into Rio’s artistic scene and design history, and if you don’t leave Chez Georges feeling both relaxed and inspired to redesign your entire home, then you’ve probably done it wrong.
Ladeira do Meireles, 90 – Santa Teresa, Rio de Janeiro – RJ, 20241-340, Brazil
