I’m not usually one for nostalgia, but something about Amsterdam always tugs at the edges of it. Maybe it’s the way the morning light hits the canal water like liquid gold, or how the air smells faintly of waffles and bike grease. Either way, when I checked into Tivoli Doelen Amsterdam, the city’s oldest hotel, I felt like I was stepping into a story already in progress.
This 17th-century building sits right on the Amstel, close enough to the Flower Market to walk there in five minutes, but quiet enough to hear the water lap against the boats. The hotel has hosted everyone from Empress Sisi to The Beatles, but what drew me in was Rembrandt. His Night Watch used to hang here. Not nearby. Here, inside the building. That kind of history gives the whole place a weight I wasn’t expecting.
My Room, My Rijksmuseum
We stayed in a canal-facing suite, and honestly, it was hard to leave. Waking up to the sound of boats passing by and people biking across stone bridges felt almost too charming to be real. The bed was one of those cloudlike situations I usually associate with spa retreats or very good dreams. And the Lalique bath products in the bathroom? Over-the-top in the best possible way.
There’s a real attention to detail in the design. Warm woods, soft lighting, and subtle nods to Dutch heritage without ever tipping into pastiche. You don’t feel like you’re in a museum, but there’s a sense of quiet respect running through everything. My morning coffee by the window, watching the city stretch awake, felt strangely cinematic.
Omber: Where I Ate a Painting (Kind Of)
Dinner at the hotel’s restaurant, Omber, was the kind of experience that makes you pause between bites just to appreciate what’s happening. The concept is rooted in Rembrandt’s style, with dishes focused on contrast, texture, and composition. It could have been gimmicky, but instead it’s genuinely creative.
My starter, the Omber Colour Study, looked like a still life. Just vegetables and tomato dressing, but arranged with real thought. The Nightwatch, a rich veal cheek dish with pumpkin and greens, was comforting and layered with slow-cooked depth. The cod, served with candied leeks and a silky vichyssoise, was delicate and clever without trying too hard.
The wine list is worth mentioning. Every bottle comes from a female-led winery, a thoughtful touch that sets the tone for the entire experience. I had a soft, elegant Austrian white that the sommelier paired with quiet confidence. After dinner, we wandered to the bar for a negroni. Low lights, canal views, and just enough buzz from the other tables. The kind of spot where you can lose track of time, in a good way.
History, Hands-On
Tivoli Doelen doesn’t just nod to its past. It invites you into it. I joined their Rembrandt paint-making workshop one afternoon. Not something I’d normally think to do, but I was surprised by how meditative it felt. Grinding minerals, mixing pigments, hearing stories about Rembrandt’s process – it was part art, part history, part therapy.
There are other ways to explore the city through the hotel too. Private canal cruises and walking tours that follow Rembrandt’s footsteps. And if you visit in spring, tulip season transforms the city. Flower stalls spill onto pavements, blooms overflow from bikes and canal bridges, and the whole city feels like it’s been painted with a brighter brush.
I left Tivoli Doelen full of stroopwafels, too many canal photos, and a quiet appreciation for a place that doesn’t rush you. This is not a hotel you breeze through. It’s one you settle into. Where mornings come with Amstel views and evenings stretch out over carefully plated meals and well-poured drinks.
It isn’t about cramming in sights or ticking boxes. It’s about pausing long enough to let the city soak in. That’s what Tivoli Doelen gave me. No fuss, some flash and a stay that felt personal and grounded – the kind of experience that lingers long after the suitcase is unpacked. As for the laundry – well, that’s for another day.
@tivolidoelen
Nieuwe Doelenstraat 26, 1012 CZ Amsterdam, Netherlands
