Nicknamed the ‘Mile High City’. Denver, Colorado is located a lofty 5,280 feet above sea level. On the doorstep of the bucket-list Rocky Mountains, no wonder it’s perhaps best known as a winter destination, for several cool ski resorts are within a 60-90 minute drive, including world-famous Vail and Breckenridge.
Yet basking in an average annual 300 days of sunshine, good weather shines well beyond snowy slopes under bluebird skies, inviting year-round exploration, whether during spring blossoms, summer patio season, the riot of fall colours or dazzling festive lights.
America’s ‘capital of the outdoors’ is thus a magnet for lovers of hiking, cycling, horse-riding, rafting, fishing, wellness and wildlife, not just in the Rocky Mountains, but within the lush green spaces, parks, gardens, riverbanks, trails and bike lanes linking vibrant, walkable neighbourhoods enjoying an equally healthy appetite for art, culture, sport and refreshment.
1. Picture This
Native American tribes gathered along the Colorado plains and South Platte riverbanks long before the prospectors arrived. But as soon as precious metal was discovered at the foot of the Rockies in 1858, the resulting Gold Rush gave birth to Denver, putting this boom town squarely on the map.
Nowadays, treasures such as galleries, museums and the Civic Center Park lie within the Golden Triangle Creative District. Architectural gem Denver Art Museum (DAM), with its dynamic Daniel Libeskind triangular-designed Hamilton Building to mirror Rocky peaks, hosts world-class collections to indigenous workshops. DAM also now encompasses the Kirkland Museum of Fine & Decorative Arts with a specific focus on Colorado artists.
Nearby, Molly Brown House Museum is the preserved mansion that the ‘Heroine of the Titanic’ (played by Kathy Bates in the film) bought with her wealthy mine engineer husband, who struck gold, quite literally. The Browns travelled the world with their fortune but when on board the stricken liner, Molly was praised for helping not only to rescue but raise funds for the ship’s destitute survivors. It’s a fascinating insight into the life of this feisty, empathetic Irish American.
You soon get used to the abbreviated lingo for neighbourhoods and attractions. Denver’s Lower Downtown (LoDo) is refreshingly easily walkable and the River Art North District (RiNo), with its striking murals, is within a 15-minute stroll. If you want explanations behind the street art, guided tours are available – our Denver Microwbrew Tour included a welcome mix of graffiti and craft breweries.
An Uber ride away, the unique immersive art exhibition Meow Wolf Denver’s Convergence Station is both family and sci-fi friendly, like stepping into a scene from Star Wars! An unusual experience, keep an open mind and expect the unexpected.
2. Hottest Tickets in Town
Opposite Meow Wolf, American football stars the Denver Broncos wow crowds at the impressive 85,000 seat Empower Field at Mile High (also a concert venue with Ed Sheeran billed for 2026). In Major League Baseball’s highest altitude stadium, Coors Field, the row of purple seats marks exactly 5,280 feet above sea level. An advantage for home side the Colorado Rockies, it poses a challenge for pitchers as batters can send the ball flying through thin air.
If you can’t get a ticket, you may be able to watch the sporting highlights on a large screen at nearby McGregor Square, a hub of restaurants, bars and baseball-themed hotel The Rally, where you can’t quite see the game from the spacious rooms, but can occasionally hear excited roars from the stylish rooftop pool and bar.
Yet I’d argue the hottest ticket in town is to catch a concert at Red Rocks Park & Amphitheatre just 15 miles from LoDo. This iconic outdoor stadium surrounded by towering sandstone rocks has been host to such legendary performers as U2, Jimi Hendrix, The Rolling Stones and John Denver (who took his stage name from the city he loved). Even the Beatles rocked the Rockies back in 1964 which is why we found ourselves dancing to the Fab Four’s classics played by a leading tribute band. It doesn’t matter who is on stage, go for the magical and memorable experience of a performance enhanced by natural acoustics as well as the sunset, stars and city lights.
3. Outdoor Adventure
Being within a 90-minute drive, it’s perhaps not surprising that Denver’s No 1 tourism attraction is the Rocky Mountains National Park for its many adrenaline-fuelled activities. Excursion companies like Aspire Tours include round-trip transportation from downtown with fun and knowledgeable guides. Our five-mile hike past dramatic waterfalls to crystal-clear Mills Lake soon left droves of day trippers behind leaving us in peace to soak up the stunning panoramas of serrated snow-capped peaks and the early-changing golden fall shades of aspen.
Birds like bald eagles and vultures could be spotted soaring in the thermals and we were thrilled to encounter a wild herd of elk. You may be relieved to hear that you’re less likely to come across black bears, moose and mountain lions that also call this remote and rugged habitat home.
Perhaps even scarier would be an overnight stay at the Stanley Hotel by the park entrance, said to be haunted and the inspiration for The Shining after author Stephen King and his wife spent an eerie, last-night-of-the-season there. Also the location for film Dumb and Dumber, it’s rumoured that actor Jim Carey refused to check into the hotel on account of its spooky reputation – I’m with him!
4. Here for the Beer?
After soaking up the scenery, you’re certainly in the right place for a pint – or even a beer-inspired spa if that’s more your thing. Awash with 150 breweries, Denver produces more beer than any other American city. Founded in 1873, Coors is the largest and perhaps most famous of the breweries, still using the same fresh Rocky Mountain spring water source. You could kick off the Denver Beer Trail at original brew pub Wynkoop (anyone brave enough for the Rocky Mountain Oyster Stout made with bulls’ testicles?), but as there are so many to sample, you’ll need a strong constitution or else a few nights’ stay.
For those who prefer wine, spirits or are teetotal, you’re also spoilt for choice by the plethora of wineries, cocktail lounges, rooftop terraces, speak easy hideaways and cafés. Larimer Square is an atmospheric spot for boutiques, bistros and bars with outdoor tables.
5. A Treat to Eat
Denver’s foodie scene serves up a heady menu of no less than 32 Michelin Guide recognised restaurants to more modest gourmet food halls such as Denver Milk Market in LoDo or RiNo’s Denver Central Market. The appetising news is that you don’t need to spend a fortune to eat well (though bear in mind the additional 20% tips for service).
My favourites included Chez Maggy for must-have pancakes; The Bindery for an open-bakery brunch; salads and sandwiches at Leven Deli Co near the Museum District; the Michelin Bib Gourmand Latin-inspired Mister Oso and Tamayo for tequilas as tasty as its authentic Mexican cuisine.
Getting there:
Depart from London or regional UK airports to Denver International Airport with the option to pre-clear US immigration at Dublin Airport when flying Aer Lingus. An easy $10 train ride is available from the airport to Union Station downtown. The Rally Hotel is a 10-minute walk where rooms are available from $299 (£220) + taxes and fees.
