Berlin in December is pure atmosphere. A city of steel skies, historic streets and twinkling Christmas markets. We check in to the Radisson Collection Hotel, Berlin, perfectly positioned in the heart of Mitte, just steps from the grand Berlin Cathedral and the impressive Humboldt Forum. It immediately feels sophisticated, calm and beautifully curated. A perfect setting for a pre-Christmas mini break with my partner.
Walking into the vast lobby, we are greeted by the extraordinary “Living Tree”, a 24-metre-high vertical garden alive with almost 2,000 plants. It softens the architecture and fills the space with freshness and serenity. There is quite a back story here, as a few years ago this space was occupied by the ‘Aquadom’ a 25-metre-tall cylindrical aquarium with built-in transparent elevator.
On 16 December 2022, the aquarium ruptured and collapsed, propelling 1,500 fish into the street. Fortunately, this happened in the very early hours of the morning so no humans were injured, but sadly the same can’t be said for the fish. The hotel re-opened a year ago with the vertical garden in place instead.
The design throughout is thoughtful and contemporary, with warm wood, soft greys and plum tones, clean lines and generous natural light. Our Collection Premium room overlooks the Cathedral and feels modern yet restful. The bathroom is all white marble and dark wood, complete with an oversized rain shower that quickly becomes a highlight after a day exploring the city. Indeed, it’s quite the sanctuary, keeping the curtains open to look at the cathedral as the daylight dips is a real treat.
At San Éna, the hotel’s Greek-inspired restaurant, the vibe feels effortlessly grown-up and quietly glamorous. At dinner on our first night, we begin with a crisp Greek white wine, mineral and refreshing, which sets the tone perfectly for the Mediterranean-inspired menu. The Greek small plates are made for sharing and lingering, generous, flavourful and confidently simple, with fresh herbs, citrus notes and beautifully balanced seasoning.
Cocktails are where San Éno really has fun though, as do we. The Metaxa Melody stands out as an unexpected favourite, blending Metaxa 7*, cucumber, lime and sugar, finished with a light wine foam that adds texture without overwhelming the drink. It is elegant and pairs surprisingly well with the food, making this the kind of place where one glass becomes two… and a few plates easily turn into a long, relaxed evening.
Breakfast is also served in the San Éna restaurant, and if you have stayed in a Radisson Collection hotel before, you’ll know how expansive their breakfast buffet can be. This does not disappoint and we stock up on fresh fruit, smoked salmon, pastries, juice and coffee before a mooch about the hotel’s large lobby and bar area, perusing the fantastic book collection.
Fully re-charged, days are spent discovering the city’s rich history. From the hotel, we wander to Museum Island, losing hours inside the Pergamon and Altes Museum. We head up the TV Tower for extraordinary panoramic views across rooftops and the river and enjoy a fun virtual reality view of the city’s history, before standing before the Berlin Wall at the East Side Gallery, its colourful murals a powerful reminder of the past.
Getting around is effortless thanks to Berlin’s U-Bahn. It is fast, efficient and refreshingly easy to navigate, connecting Mitte to every corner of the city within minutes. Although don’t forget to validate your ticket or pass after you’ve bought it. There are no annoying ticket barriers here, but you don’t want to get caught out by a ticket inspector.
One evening we travel west to GRACE Restaurant at Hotel Zoo, widely regarded as the coolest recent opening in Berlin, a sentiment we quickly become fully onboard with. The ambience is undeniably chic, with quirky interiors, flattering lighting, an open fire and glamorous clientele celebrating the festive season. We opt for wine pairings, and the knowledgeable sommelier effortlessly navigates our mix of pescatarian and meat-eating tastes, selecting Riesling, Chardonnay and Rioja with precision.
Dishes arrive in delicious succession: burrata with figs, edamame beans, delicately battered cod served in chip paper, fillet steak chargrilled and cooked to perfection with Japanese mushrooms, and black miso cod that is buttery, melt-in-the-mouth perfection. Broccoli with macadamia nuts and sweet potato fries complete the feast. A dessert platter of mochi, cheesecake and macarons is (just about) shared before finishing with espresso and brandy. Truly a night to remember, particularly on the waistline!
Another evening takes us to Kreuzberg. On Bergmannstraße, Anno 64 offers a different rhythm entirely, and you’re very unlikely to meet any other tourists here as it’s a classic neighbourhood bar. With mismatched furniture, low lighting, great music and a pool table tucked at the back, it feels relaxed and authentic. The kind of place where the hours slip by unnoticed, and the drinks are refreshingly good value.
Visiting just before Christmas adds another layer of magic. There seem to be Christmas markets on every corner, and they glow with fairy lights and the scent of spice. Holding a warming glühwein as we browse stalls selling hand-made tree decorations is Hollywood-level festive fun. Even so, I am already planning a return in warmer weather to experience Berlin’s terraces, river walks and open-air energy, as I can only imagine a summer in Berlin.
Stylish, cultural and endlessly compelling, the Radisson Collection Hotel, Berlin proves the perfect base for exploring this remarkable city. I leave inspired, restored and ready for my next visit.
Radisson Collection Berlin rooms start from £170 per night bed and breakfast.
Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 3, 10178 Berlin, Germany
