A giant blossoming rhododendron bush punctuates the skyline on the drive into this quintessentially English retreat. It has even attracted news coverage, having reached over 38 metres in length and 24 metres in width – now said to be as long as 10 double-decker buses. South Lodge offers a fresh approach to countryside luxury breaks in Horsham, West Sussex.
The space, for a start: 93 acres of gardens – there’s plenty to play with. Wild swimming, tennis courts, outdoor and indoor pools, treatment rooms and a luxurious gym await, while inside the grandeur of the estate there are super-luxe lakeside lodges called The Reeds. Dining options are plentiful too, including Camellia restaurant and Botanica over at the spa.
But it’s the glass-walled restaurant that forms the true heart of the hotel in the shape of The Pass – a unique and immersive Michelin-star dining experience headed up by chef Ben Wilkinson. Ben and his strong team have crafted a tasting menu that champions creativity and invention, thoughtfully paired with wine. Recently, The Pass has undergone an extensive refurbishment, with warm rich autumnal tones and pops of green to complement the variety of dishes served.
An intimate chef’s table-style experience, it feels more like a private dining room where the chef is cooking just for you and a group of close friends. The 28-seat restaurant, with high stools and high tables throughout, gives you a bird’s-eye view through the floor-to-ceiling windows onto all the action in the kitchen – perfect for taking in the theatre of it all.
Taste buds on. To begin, a trio of pork, cheese and vegetable-themed canapés (we opted for the aubergine over the tuna option). The presentation alone was something, and ridiculously moreish, setting the standard immediately. The spiced aubergine with grilled courgette, crème fraîche and toasted onion seeds was a firm favourite.
Next came the Louet Feisser oysters, steamed in the shell to keep them fresh and firm up the flavour, served with cucumber, dill, pickled sea lettuce and turnip. On top sat caviar, finished with a sauce made from fermented rice cake and crème fraîche. Not to be high maintenance, but this is now the only way we’d like our oysters served going forward.
To follow was one of the most popular dishes on the menu: the celeriac and truffle royale. Braised beef cheek in red wine sauce combined with mushrooms, pickled celeriac, fresh truffle and fried celeriac, piled straw-like into a mountain for extra texture and flavour. The dish has recently been reinvented with the introduction of a dainty cocktail glass of broth made from oxtail of beef and celeriac. Served alongside was fried sourdough bread topped with fillet of beef tartare and homemade black treacle bread – a recipe dating back almost 14 years to Cumbria – accompanied by pink peppercorn butter. Rich and warming flavours: comfort food on a plate.
Gently steamed day boat turbot came next. Finished on the grill, it was served with mussels, leeks and king oyster mushrooms, topped with a foamed velouté sauce finished with English sparkling wine. Heaven, and uplifting after the richness of the beef course.
Watching the preparations for the duck through the kitchen window was theatrical. Ben explained it was Creedy Carver free-range duck from Devon, served with a morel-stuffed mushroom, white asparagus and wild garlic. A rich red wine sauce made using the duck bones and spices was poured tableside. The duck was so tender it practically melted in the mouth, while the accompanying red wine pairing was spot on.
The first dessert to arrive had to be one of the prettiest desserts ever placed before us, and our highlight of the evening. A taste sensation – The Kumquat – citrus, lemon thyme and fromage blanc, served with a sweet Hungarian wine so good you’ll want to take a picture of the label to stock up on and enjoy at home.
This was followed by a chocolate delice with choc and hazelnut base, coffee caramel through the middle and caramelised vanilla ice cream. Usually chocolate desserts can feel a tad rich, but somehow this one didn’t feel heavy in the slightest.
No tasting menu is complete without petit fours – a sweet ending to an exceptional menu.
The precision was evident throughout every course, right down to the finest details, including the expertly presented butter. Even the delicate porcelain crockery and holders reflected the dishes being served. Service felt natural, with a team that oozed confidence, and every dish was explained in detail. The sommelier was passionate and full of personality, while Ben and his team brought warmth and enthusiasm to the experience, happily welcoming diners into the kitchen to photograph the action.
What made the meal even better? The fact you could simply stroll down to your accommodation for the night afterwards.
Next to the vineyards on one side sat the lakeside lodges, The Reeds, with our home for the evening being the aptly named Water Buttercup lodge. A WhatsApp group was organised for all communication – nothing was too much trouble for the team. The Reeds is a two-storey hideaway with floor-to-ceiling views of the picturesque lake, bedrooms upstairs and downstairs, kitchenettes, a lounge area designed to maximise the lake view, and a large deck with dining furniture and an outdoor bath.
South Lodge branded Dryrobes hung in the wardrobes ready for outdoor activities, alongside wild swimming books and vases so you could handpick your own blooms in the grounds. The list of homely, thoughtful touches goes on.
After Michelin dining the night before, a session in the state-of-the-art gym feels like the only way to start the day, followed of course by recovery in the sauna overlooking the outdoor pool.
Come breakfast – not that you’ll feel the slightest bit hungry after the most memorable meal at The Pass and, exclusive to The Reeds lodges, you can have a breakfast hamper delivered to your lodge at your preferred time. Simply lift the privacy hatch and voilà: home-baked sourdough still warm from the oven, fresh eggs, fruit, yoghurt and pastries. It’s the best way to end your stay leisurely and really soak in the view.
South Lodge is the perfect place for pampering, indulging and hitting the reset button. It’s less hotel, more retreat, with exceedingly good food – a formula that will always keep you coming back for more.
South Lodge tasting menu of seven courses from £145, with wine pairing from an additional £95. Available Wednesday to Sunday evenings.
The Pass at South Lodge Hotel, Brighton Rd, Crabtree, Horsham RH13 6PS
