London isn’t short of glamorous restaurants but Riviera is in a league of its own. The new belle of St. James is initially situated at street level, and then, almost theatrically, a chic escalator carries you upwards into something altogether brighter.
At the top you are met by the smiling front of house who guides you into a room wrapped in glass, catching the light and reflecting it back across tables filled with some of the most exquisitely dressed people in the city. It feels elevated in every sense. There is an immediate energy, a quiet hum of conversation and clinking glasses, the unmistakable feeling that this is exactly where everyone wants to be right now.
Riviera brings a little slice of sunshine to Mayfair. Inspired by the Côte d’Azur, it leans into that easy, effortless glamour, the kind that suggests long lunches that slip into dinner and evenings that stretch without noticing. And yet, despite the gloss, there is something disarmingly comfortable about it. It is glamorous, certainly, but also warm, inviting, and somewhere you can settle into for the entire evening.
The meal begins, as it should, with something sparkling and a breadbasket with homemade butter. Sip a glass of Crémant d’Alsace Jean Baptiste Adam which arrives crisp and celebratory.
The Riviera Josper Caesar Salad is far more interesting than its name might suggest, smoky from the grill, deeply savoury, and layered with flavour in a way that feels indulgent. Alongside it, the sea bass carpaccio with truffle ponzu offers a contrast: delicate, precise, the clean freshness of the fish lifted by a subtle umami edge.
Pastas arrive as the room settles into its rhythm. The trofie pesto is vibrant and fragrant, the aromatic basil cutting through with clarity, while the rich parmesan bucatini leans richer, silkier, a delicious dish that feels simple on paper but indulgent in execution.
The grilled beef fillet with Café de Paris butter is deeply satisfying, tender and full of flavour, the butter melting into something unapologetically rich. The charcoal grilled chicken with tahini offers a lighter but equally considered alternative, while the Riviera seabass is clean and composed. Pair with a fresh baby gem salad and a generous portion of French fries that are golden, crisp, and impossible to ignore.
Let the drinks flow. A glass of Côtes de Provence rosé feels almost instinctive in this setting, echoing long Summer lunches on the French Riviera. For something sharper, the Picpoul de Pinet cuts cleanly through the richness of the dishes, while the Saumur Rouge offers a deeper, more grounded counterpart.
For dessert, the crème brûlée with lavender shortbread is quietly beautiful, the crack of the caramelised top giving way to something smooth and delicately perfumed, the lavender lingering without ever overwhelming. The sea salt chocolate mousse is equally tasty but darker, richer.
Glasses are refilled without asking, conversations stretch, and no one seems in any hurry to leave. It is easy to understand why every table is full. This is Mayfair’s new it-restaurant, a place to see and be seen, but also somewhere you can truly unwind.
Riviera understands its moment. It offers glamour without stiffness, energy without chaos. Somewhere between the first sip of Crémant and the final spoonful of crème brûlée, London fades slightly, and for a moment, you could almost believe you are somewhere along the Côte d’Azur.
@rivieralondon | riviera-london.co.uk
23 St James St, London SW1A 1HA
