A gem nestled in the Sea of Japan off the coast of Niigata Prefecture, Sado Island is only two hours from Tokyo by bullet train and a short ferry ride. Arrive at the rugged cliffs that plunge into the deep blue sea, framing secluded coves and golden sandy beaches that whisper tales of ancient maritime journeys.
Inland, rolling hills and dense forests cradle centuries-old terraced rice paddies and hidden trails, inviting you to explore their serene mystery. The island’s storied past is etched in the relics of its famed gold mines—once a beacon of prosperity and labour—and the vibrant cultural pulse of its traditional festivals, where the thunderous rhythms of taiko drumming echo across time.
Along the coast to the north, three tub boat establishments fight against the waves that are getting rougher as winter approaches. One of these, Hangiri, located in Shukunegi’s harbour, 10 minutes from Ogi, looks out over the waves just beyond. It is the only one of the establishments whose boats sail out to sea. 72-year-old Kaneko-san, prepares the tub boats into the harbour every morning with an indomitable diligence and the enjoyment of a child.
For the past 10 years he has built every last one of his boats, satisfied that he is the only one that does not use plastic in its construction and has rowed one of them into Niigata harbour twice. More than 30 hours at the mercy of the waves, make the routes he devises seem like a joke: sailing from the port of Ogi to Shukunegi with customers on board. If you have three hours to dedicate to this unique experience, it is worth it. For those who do not, there is a choice of 15, 25 and 35 minute trips. The last two sail out to the open sea, on a good day you can see Mount Myoko and the Northern Alps Mountain range, as well as the diverse rock formations along the coast and the marine fauna they shelter.
Less than an hour’s drive from both Ogi and Ryotsu, a huge crevasse cuts through one of the Osado Mountains. Inside, more than 400 years of mining and technological advances. The network of tunnels in these caves culminates in a small museum. Traditional tools and machines, but also the technological advances that came from Europe: locomotives powered by electric batteries, make for a picturesque snapshot.
From its stone path, hidden among cedars and maples, just the outline of the Seisuiji temple’s structure can be seen. From its terrace, a view of the all-absorbing forest. Spot the countless business cards that devotees entrust to the fortune that the temple consecrates.
In the centre of Ogi’s main street, where a themed fair is held in early-autumn with locals offering handicrafts, the Uotome restaurant is found. A fantastic sushi place, where the chef offers distinguished courses, served with a smile and a joke or two.
Five minutes from Ogi’s harbour, Kotaro-san runs the outstanding Hanaya guesthouse. Eight impeccably clean rooms with tatami mats, a small museum, and a playroom for children. Hospitality and tradition go hand in hand, along with the warmest welcome.
Sado Island is beautiful all year round but in early autumn it is particularly magnificent, with the leaves changing from green to reds and golds, the pace of the island begins to slow down. Sado is famed for its glorious sunrises and sunsets that paint the sky over the island in a palette of soft pastels or fiery hues. The sky becomes a living canvas that attracts locals and visitors alike, all in awe of its beauty.
