It was a simple plan – pop into ROKA’s Shochu Lounge, sample the new Izakaya drinks and snack menu, and call it an early night. A Sakura cocktail – roku gin, yuzu sake, champagne and the distinct taste of cherry blossom – seemed like the right kind of start. With a gorgeous plate of chicken karaage, dipped in chilli sauce and garlic soy, I knew I was in the right place.
But that was the turning point.
The Shochu Lounge, seductive as it is, suddenly felt like a warm-up act. The glow from the robata grill back upstairs was pulling focus. So I left the lounge behind and gave in to something more substantial.
At ROKA Charlotte Street – the first base in London – the robata (RO) grill is centre stage, with an incredible buzz coming from the open flames and the energy from the expert chefs (KA). The menu is built around the heat, with three distinct kitchens fuelling a line-up with all elements demanding to be tried.
Things started gently: shiro miso soup, delicate tone setting. It didn’t take long for the waiter to point me to one of their favourites – the gindara to kani no gyoza, dumplings of crab, prawn and black cod dressed with chilli and spring onion. Definitely worth listening to the recommendation, the hot and fragrant wrappers filled with rich seafood, ticked every box.
A plate of tiger prawn tempura with a spicy yuzu dressing – bridged the path to raw dishes, where the kampachi sashimi stood out. Thin yellowtail slices slicked with yuzu-truffle dressing, somehow balancing the delicacy of raw fish with the earthy depth of truffle. The six-piece nigiri selection was equally precise: a quiet flex from the raw bar that confirmed ROKA can ace the classics.
But everything was building up to the robata. Black cod marinated in yuzu miso, was buttery and burnished. Australian wagyu sirloin with burnt leeks and chilli butter – intensely flavoured and perfectly cooked. Paired with grilled portobello mushrooms in chilli garlic butter, and yaki asparagus dressed in sweet soy and sesame – both vegetables given the complete respect of the grill.
Around me, other diners leaned into different rhythms: some exploring the seasonal tasting menus, others locked into the post-theatre sets. But we weren’t quite done. The ROKA dessert platter, combining exotic fruit, ice creams and sorbets with two of the chef’s signature dishes – the miso crème brûlée, and a dark chocolate green tea pudding.
I came for snacks. I left having eaten from every corner of the kitchen. Next time I find myself at ROKA, I’ll do exactly the same again.
