In the heart of the Barrio de las Letras, Madrid, where the first copy of Don Quijote was printed, the Meliá Casa de las Artes hotel honours the seven arts by reinventing a palatial building from 1913 that served as the headquarters of the Spanish Association of Railway Workers. Designed by Studio ASAH, architect Álvaro Sans and interior designer Adriana Sans, the terracotta tones on the walls, inspired by the Prado Museum, the selection of lithographs by Dalí in the hall and the engravings by Gustave Doré in the rooms that both dedicated to Don Quijote, pay homage to Miguel de Cervantes. A taste for literature perfectly encapsulated in a stunning, white-painted library. Where portraits of Ramón María del Valle-Inclán, Rosalía de Castro among other gaze over a particular collection on the shelves: each book marked with Meliá’s own ex-libris.
The welcoming entrance and the simple layout of the facilities invite, through a wide double marble imperial staircase, to MACHÉ. The symmetrical dining room still preserves the neoclassical stained-glass windows of the Maumejean Brothers and the gilded chandeliers that hang from each corner. The dark, clay-coloured walls are a perfect match for the delicate and warm lighting, as well as their elongated design with the giant white birds of paradise that rule the room. A fresh touch to the velvet caress of the jade armchairs and the endless purple curtains. At the back of the room hides a stage that hosts a continuously updated cultural programme. Concerts, enlivened brunches, ballet barre or painting workshops accompany an equally creative cuisine.
Each week, to liven up such wide cultural offer, the cocktail team prepares a house spirit. On this visit, a creamy Pisco Sour without lime, citrusy enough from having macerated oranges in mezcal for periods of at least a month, and a fresh, almost sweet Negroni introduced the first courses of the evening. But also a picual olive oil from Jaen, Andalucía: a first day harvest from Castillo de Canena that, with its slight spiciness, whetted satisfactorily the appetite.
The grilled avocado with diced marinated salmon, its soft but spicy mayonnaise and the surprising crunch of the quinoa competed in textures with the gildas with anchovies from the Cantabrian Sea. Fresh, simple, traditional products exhibited their quality alongside the delicate balance of fusion cuisine techniques. The smoothness of the sundried tomatoes, the salmon and the anchovies, the crunch of the piparra and the quinoa or the creaminess of the avocado and the fresh cheese, orchestrated a graceful dance of contrasts.
Without delay, the main courses surprised an already satisfied palate. The sweetness of the croaker matched perfectly with its pungent seafood sauce and the bitterness of the spinach shoots, elongated and turgid like small bean pods. The chicken supreme escaped from the saltpetre of the sea, picking up a caring village flavour. A greenhouse on the plate: a garnish of selected vegetables by the distinctive tenderness of the free range meat and a thick but sweet reduction of its own juices for sauce.
Despite the copious meal, the dessert selection forced a choice. Something light before wrapping up such a cosy evening. The chocolate Pana Cota with red fruits, both fresh and in a flavourful jam, awakened new sensations with its restrained acidity, its sweet crispy sparkles. A journey of experiences accompanied from the first mouthful by a rich selection of music. Classic jazz compositions, trip jazz, city pop or nu-disco, accommodated the architectural and culinary tastes that coexist in MACHÉ. Where menus such as the one described, around sixty euros per person, made both impeccable service and the renowned cuisine of José Luis Costa enjoyable.
C. de Atocha, 83, Centro, 28012 Madrid, Spain
