It doesn’t take long after entering through the double doors to The Stafford Hotel off St James’s Place before you’re met with a flute of Louis Roederer. You’re ushered through to the hushed lounge, where other guests wait patiently for their turn to begin the evening’s fine dining experience. Delicate but gorgeous canapés – choux buns piped with smoked eel mousse and miniature shortcrust tarts filled with truffled potato cream – last only long enough for a quick photo before vanishing on the tongue. Low cheers of awe ripple from a nearby table, where the Bowler Hatted Magician has just set fire to his business card – a small spark that heightens the anticipation.
Michael Caines is no stranger to the spotlight, but his arrival at The Stafford London on 17th September is a particularly joyful moment. One of Britain’s most decorated chefs, Caines’s success at his Lympstone Manor Hotel has not gone unnoticed. Now, as culinary strategist of The Stafford and with Lympstone Manor joining The Stafford Collection, this marks an exciting opportunity to experience his masterful cooking in the heart of the capital.
The Signature Tasting Menu, from £165 per person, tells the story of Caines’s modern European and classical technique in courses that move with confidence. It begins simply – with warm, lightly spiced and salted bread, designed for tearing and dunking unapologetically throughout the meal.
From there, the tempo rises. Orkney scallop ceviche arrives dressed with Oscietra caviar – somehow the delicacy of the seafood manages to outpace hits of avocado, honey, soy and grapefruit that aid in making this dish both kitsch and gorgeous. A glass of Douro Pequeno Dilema brings a precise, citrus-laced accompaniment as part of the well-informed wine pairing.
There’s a soft richness to the confit duck and duck liver terrine that continues the vintage style. Dainty but powerful emulsions of pickled apple, spiced apple purée alongside candied walnuts level out each mouthful to build on each complex element. Letting the duck take over the palate, the Riesling Roche Granitique supports as well as refreshes. The seafood centrepiece, a meaty pan roasted piece of Brixham Turbot, is given full attention – shellfish chowder, an oyster, more Oscietra, and a Lympstone Manor Cuvée sauce. With a pour of Hamilton Russell Chardonnay adding touches of pear and lime, the dish’s depth is elevated beyond its already luxurious position.
On to the red meats, and the Autumnal comfort of Roast Pigeon – its earthiness lifted by celeriac and truffle puree and the drizzle of a light Madeira sauce alongside an Alsace pinot noir. Followed by a powerful slice of Stoke Marsh Farm Hereford beef, complete with braised cheek, watercress purée and red wine sauce. Chris Wingland’s North Barossa Shiraz stands up handsomely to the beef.
Desserts are equally assured – a bright Apple sorbet with vanilla foam to cleanse the palate, then a Chocolate orange confit mousse with an orange sorbet, its moreishness only matched by its bright cone-like presentation.
With Michael Caines’s genius now available without the need to journey all the way to Devon, the perfect evening of refined indulgence and masterful cooking is finally within reach. The elegance of a fine dining hotel restaurant finally has the culinary substance to back it up.
