Nessa in Soho pays tribute to the daring creativity of its namesake, Vanessa Bell – the pioneering artist, designer and central figure of the Bloomsbury Group. Like her, this bold, curious and proudly British venue radiates a spirit of artful living that lives on in every corner, from its sleek marble counters to the quietly vibrant dining rooms.
Executive Chef Tom Cenci channels that same fearless creativity through both presentation and flavour. The menu is a canvas of British innovation – a celebration of culture and craft wrapped up in contemporary flair. The cheese & onion croquettes, elevated with sharp Montgomery cheddar and grape mustard mayo, strike a nostalgic chord yet surprise with every crisp bite.
It’s no surprise Nessa caught the attention of MasterChef – featured as one of the professional kitchens providing real world experience to the aspiring chefs. One of the dishes they had to tackle – Cenci’s celeriac carbonara. There’s no pasta here, just ribbons of root vegetable so silky they could pass for it, wrapped in the savoury warmth of truffle and pancetta, lifted by the gentle bite of aged cheese and topped with a gorgeous confit egg yolk. It’s rich, but never heavy, making it the perfect shareable showstopper.
Other plates echo the best of British summertime. A heritage tomato salad, tangled with strawberries and radish, lands sweet, sharp and sunkissed, with just enough warmth from the honey dressing to keep things interesting. The chargrilled seabream, meanwhile, arrives with blistered skin, sat in a sauce that balances butter and brine – coastal comfort dressed up for the city.
The roast lamb rump is blushing and generous, mellowed by a parsnip relish and anchored by a dark, sticky black garlic gravy. Or the coal-roasted cabbage delivers smoke and spice, with blue cheese adding a punch that’s satisfyingly moreish. Pair it all with a must have side – the Spice Bag – crisp, golden, unapologetically fun.
Desserts, as you’d hope, don’t hold back. The Jamaica ginger sticky pudding is a heady mix of heat and sweetness, made all the more decadent by caramelised milk ice cream and a swirl of ginger syrup. Or for something nostalgic, the treacle sponge arrives warm and golden, swimming in custard and slicked with salted caramel.
At its core, Nessa is a celebration. Of British produce, of playful elegance, and of the creative spirit that defined Vanessa Bell. It’s a restaurant with personality and polish, one that invites you in with a wink, then delivers with substance.