Walking past it ten times, you might never spot it. But that’s what makes it special. Oui Madame only exists at night, slipping quietly into Highbury & Islington once Sawyer and Gray packs away its daytime charm. By daylight it’s a country nook café. Come evening, from Tuesdays to Saturdays, 6pm to 11pm, it becomes something altogether more intriguing – an evenings-only pop-up that feels deliberately under the radar.
The room sets the tone straight away. Relaxed, elegant, softly lit and unforced. It has the ease of a neighbourhood wine bar, but with a kitchen that clearly knows its technique. The food leans towards modern European dining, with seasonal Mediterranean-inspired plates designed for the table rather than the individual. Every dish is made for sharing, savouring, and to be remembered.
Strong yet delicate flavours lead from the beginning. The cured mackerel bruschetta arrives as a small work of art – thin slivers of oily fish intermingled with layers of celeriac remoulade and lovage emulsion. It’s precise, quietly confident, and fresh without showing off. The beef tartare follows, presented more like a bibimbap. Short grain rice is topped with gochujang-enriched beef, finished with a bright egg yolk and pine nuts. Mixed together, it becomes a deeply rich and satisfying opener. Sticky layers of pork shoulder come next. Small skewers of pressed meat, lacquered in gochujang glaze and finished with sesame seeds and micro herbs, deliver a welcome hit of richness while staying light, and pair effortlessly with a glass of wine.
Mains follow suit. Seafood orzotto arrives piled with baby octopus, plump mussels and clams, dotted with smoked yoghurt and trout roe. The rack of lamb, simply marinated and finished with natural jus, shows how restraint can empower bold flavour. There’s room, of course, for the cheese board, where a gorgeous 30 month aged comté and a standout bleu de basque underline the care and dedication behind the ingredient selection.
Throughout the evening, the wine list quietly steals the show. It feels like a wine bar that’s been gifted a high-end kitchen and knows exactly when to show restraint rather than bravado. Oui Madame is easy to miss, which only makes it more rewarding to seek out.
