If you’re looking for a quiet evening and a heartfelt chat over sushi, this probably isn’t your spot. PIRAÑA in St James’s isn’t subtle. It’s bold, it’s lively, and it knows exactly what kind of night it wants you to have. I went on a Friday thinking I’d be in and out after a few plates of sashimi. Instead, I left hours later, slightly tipsy, ears ringing, and wondering why I’d never paired DJ sets with seabass ceviche before.
Opened in mid-2024, PIRAÑA is the first restaurant from Strongarm Hospitality, the team behind REIGN and TABŪ. They’re better known for velvet ropes and champagne sprays than Nikkei cuisine, but here, they’ve pulled off something genuinely impressive.
This is more than a party with food. The menu holds its own.
First Impressions
From the moment you walk in, PIRAÑA goes big on atmosphere. Think deep blue lighting, textured curved walls, and a ceiling that feels like you’ve wandered into a coral reef designed by a very stylish architect. It’s theatrical without being cheesy. There’s a private dining room hidden behind one-way glass and two main rooms buzzing with people who’ve clearly dressed for the occasion.
By 9pm, the place starts to shift. The music gets louder, the lights get lower, and the table next to you is ordering another round of spicy tuna rolls and espresso martinis without even checking the menu. You’ll probably do the same.
The Food
The food is Nikkei, a Japanese-Peruvian blend that can be found all over London right now, but rarely done this well. The kitchen is led by Mark Morrans, who’s done stints at Nobu and MNKY HSE, and clearly knows how to balance precision with personality.
We started with the seabass ceviche, marinated in Aji Amarillo leche de tigre. It was zingy and clean, with the kind of heat that builds gently and makes you want more. Sweet potato and choclo corn added a comforting, starchy contrast that stopped it from being too sharp.
The spicy salmon on crispy rice was, frankly, ridiculous – in the best way. The rice was golden and crunchy on the outside but warm and soft inside, topped with rich, buttery salmon and just enough heat to make you pause between bites. It’s the kind of thing you order “for the table” and then don’t actually share.
From the sushi section, we tried the seared Otoro glazed with soy, which almost melted before it hit your tongue, and a roll stuffed with wagyu and dressed in black garlic mayo. You could feel it bordering on dessert territory. Not a bad thing, depending on your appetite.
There’s also a solid list of hot dishes, including a comforting plate of udon noodles loaded with seafood and vegetables, rock shrimp tempura that arrived piping hot and crunchy, and a butter-roasted Chilean seabass that was the star of the meal. Silky, flaky, and packed with flavour, it came with a gentle hit of shiso that gave it just enough lift.
Another standout was the steamed king crab leg. You get a proper portion, not just a garnish, served with a generous dollop of spicy mayonnaise. It’s messy, indulgent and completely worth it. We didn’t try the whole menu – though we gave it a fair go – but everything we had was well-balanced, confidently seasoned, and designed to be eaten with enthusiasm rather than daintiness.
The Drinks
There’s a dedicated espresso martini menu, which is exactly the sort of commitment I respect. Mine was cold, strong, and not too sweet, which sounds simple, but is surprisingly rare. The cocktails lean playful but not too try-hard, and the wine and Champagne list has something for everyone. You can go traditional or adventurous. Either way, the drinks feel thought through rather than slapped on to fit the scene.
The Crowd and the Shift Into Party Mode
Dinner here doesn’t wind down. It ramps up. Around 10pm, the lights dipped further, the DJ took over, and a sort of soft transformation happened. You’re still technically in a restaurant, but people are dancing next to the tables, cocktails are flowing, and the idea of ordering dessert quietly vanishes. It’s not a club, exactly, but if you’re the kind of person who ends their night by pushing the chairs out of the way, you’ll feel right at home.
Who’s Behind It
PIRAÑA is the work of Garry Caprani and Asher Grant, two hospitality pros with a solid track record in London nightlife. They’ve spent the past few years building a reputation for high-energy, well-designed venues that draw a glamorous crowd. This is their first restaurant, and while the party DNA is clear, the food proves they’ve taken this new direction seriously.
There are plenty of restaurants in London with good sushi. There are plenty of clubs with good cocktails. But there aren’t many places where both come together in a space that feels this confident. PIRAÑA is loud, it’s full of energy, and it’s not pretending to be anything it’s not. But the food isn’t just there to support the vibe – it’s part of the reason you stay longer than planned.
Go hungry. Wear something you can dance in. And don’t skip the crispy rice.
7-9 St James’s St, St. James’s, London SW1A 1EE
