How a single scent led to a quiet obsession with the art of raw materials.
The first time I smelt Vanilla Powder, it was on a work colleague. Months later, a mutual friend wore it too and both times, the scent caught me off guard. It lingered long enough to peak my interest: creamy, enveloping, with a soft sweetness that felt cosy yet sexy. It was the kind of fragrance that changes depending on who wears it never identical, always quietly distinctive.
Curiosity eventually led me to its source: Matière Première, the French perfume house founded by Master Perfumer Aurélien Guichard. Translating to “raw material,” the name captures the brand’s philosophy; each fragrance is built around a single natural ingredient, explored in its purest, most expressive form. Rather than layering countless notes, Guichard allows one essence to take centre stage, revealing its depth through careful restraint.
In Vanilla Powder, that approach feels almost hypnotic. Madagascan Vanilla Absolute is softened with white musk and coconut powder, creating a scent that’s both tender and refined. It’s not the sticky, dessert-like vanilla of nostalgia but something more nuanced powdered, airy, quietly sensual. The warmth remains, but it’s diffused through light.
After falling for Vanilla Powder, I wanted to explore more and the Matière Première Discovery Set was the perfect way to do it. Six sleek 6ml bottles, each one a study in a single raw material, and small enough to slip into a clutch or pocket. Though, truthfully, my favourite place for them is in the car, a line-up that travels with me, ready for whatever the day becomes.
Lately, I’ve been especially drawn to Radical Rose and Neroli Oranger. Radical Rose centres on Grasse-grown centifolia rose absolute, the highest concentration of natural rose ever used in a perfume. It’s deep and velvety, yet brightened by saffron, patchouli and labdanum. Neroli Oranger feels like pure light: Tunisian neroli and orange blossom absolute, lifted by bergamot and softened by a musky base. It’s radiant and effortless the scent of sunlight caught on skin.
A friend has claimed Parisian Musc and Falcon Leather for his car- fittingly, the more characterful of the collection. Parisian Musc combines ambrette seed absolute with cedarwood and Peruvian balm, creating a clean, intimate musk that feels like second skin. Falcon Leather, by contrast, is dark and tactile birch tar, saffron and labdanum evoking the scent of worn leather and late-night drives.
What I love about the Discovery Set is how it invites you to live with each scent. To notice how Radical Rose feels different on a crisp morning than it does at dusk; how Neroli Oranger brightens a grey London drive; how Falcon Leather lingers long after the journey ends. Each one becomes part of your rhythm.
And Vanilla Powder? It’s become a fixture in mine. It wears beautifully on my skin, so much so that I’ve added the Hand and Body Wash and Lotion to my bedtime routine, the perfect soft landing at the end of the day. Truly, Matière Première is a brand I’ve fully embraced into my life.
