Québec is a land that invites you to pause, breathe, and savour. Over seven days, I trace a path from cosmopolitan Montréal to the vineyards of Southern Québec, before retreating into the forested stillness of the Laurentians. Each stop is threaded with wellness and gastronomy, a true immersion into the Québécois joie de vivre.
Montréal greets us with cosmopolitan flair, and it’s easy to see the French influence in the architecture, as well at the language. Often described by locals as ‘the cool kid’ of the major Canadian cities, it’s easy to see how it’s earned that moniker. Indeed, in 2006, Montréal was officially designated a UNESCO City of Design. Keeping up with the aesthetic is sleek Hyatt Centric, wheremodern lines meet historic views, and where we are staying during our visit.
Dinner sets the tone at Bivouac’s enormous terrace, perched above downtown, where seasonal plates arrive alongside cocktails that feel like a love letter to the city’s many festivals. At the time we visit, the famous Just for Laughs festival is on, and the atmosphere is electric. The following day, after a silent eco-cruise with Le Petit Navire that sets off from The Old Port, we lunch on comforting Québécois classics at The Greenspot in Saint-Henri, a retro diner beloved by locals since 1947.
We are compelled to order the national dish, poutine – basically chips and gravy – and it’s the ultimate carb-fest. After an afternoon lazing by the glamorous roof-top pool at the hotel, we miraculously re-discover our appetites and head to Kwizinn, a vibrant Caribbean restaurant, before being swept into the dreamlike world of Cirque du Soleil. It originated in Quebec so it seems very fitting to see a show here.
The next morning, a peaceful retreat awaits us at Bota Bota, the ‘spa-sur-l’eau’. Floating on the St. Lawrence, we alternate between steam and plunge pools, then lunch on light, fresh plates at the spa’s riverfront bistro. Rested and well fed, we bid a fond farewell to Montréal. It’s a city steeped in culture and history with contemporary twists and turns, and we vow to return.
But now, it’s time to explore more of Quebec and by the afternoon, Montréal gives way to Southern Québec’s rolling orchards. We tour Cidrerie Michel Jodoin, sampling sparkling ciders and admiring the view. It feels like we’ve stepped into the Technicolor world of the Wizard of Oz, the greens are so vibrant and bright. After buying some cider to take with us (it’s that good) we check into the storybook charm of guesthouse La Maison Bleue in Dunham. We have a warm welcome from the lovely owners and their gorgeous basset hound, Lily. Dunham is in thecradle of the winegrowing area in Quebec and you could spend days discovering the vineyards and picking your own fruit directly from the growers.
Dinner this evening is at Espace Old Mill, and it unfolds in a stunning country-garden setting; offering gastronomic meals on one of the most beautiful sites in the Eastern Townships. We have a tour of the gardens first and settle down for an incredible tasting course of seasonal vegetables grown just outside the door.
Southern Québec reveals its full depth the following day. After a short drive we reach Au Diable Vert; 14 km of private trails covering 365 acres. We pedal sky-high through the forest on the VéloVolant; suspended in the treetops in a recumbent bicycle. It’s incredibly peaceful and nowhere near as scary as it sounds, at least for this adrenalin-phobe! After such excitement and exercise, our next stop is just down the hill at the Missisquoi River where we spend a blissful hour floating down the lazy river in a rubber ring. Kayaks and paddleboards are available too, but we opt for the most relaxing option.
Next up is Château Ste-Agnès, a magnificent vineyard nestled in the heart of thousands of vines with breathtaking views of the Appalachian Mountains, followed by a quick stop to meet the effervescent Tom Rand at The Domaine Héritage Cidery, where we taste his delicious sugar-free ciders, made with complete carbon neutrality.
For dinner we are heading somewhere unique. Les Cocagnes is a non-profit organization developing a new model of cohabitation on agricultural land, supporting small-scale ecological farming. Every weekend in the summer a renowned guest chef takes over the outdoor kitchen and on our visit it’s Joe Thottungal. Born in Kerala, Joe built his career between Mumbai, the Middle East, and Ottawa, where he founded Coconut Lagoon and Thali, two must-visit destinations for Indian cuisine in Canada.
We have an incredible South Indian-inspired meal created using the site’s farmed ingredients. Maybe it’s the gin and tonic aperitif and the lake view combined with the five beautifully presented courses that leads me to hand-on-heart declare it’s the best Indian meal I’ve ever eaten. Later, at La Cache du Lac Champlain, sleek lakeside rooms and the Noah Spa offer a restorative close to a memorable day.
Farm-to-table dining has become a welcome theme, and lunch at Ferme du Mihouli brings terroir to the table with unfussy elegance, the prettiest crockery and incredible food and wine. From there, we ascend into the Laurentians for the final chapter of our Quebec adventure, checking into Hotel Mont Gabriel. As someone who has never set foot on a ski slope, it’s fascinating to spend time in a ski resort and watch the ski lifts travel up and down the green slopes before the winter season arrives. At the cosy hotel we enjoy Swedish massages followed by dinner before a very comfortable night’s sleep.
The Laurentians countryside is something to behold and we have a fabulous treetop walk at Sentier des Cimes and a serene Lake Tremblant cruise. We check in for our final night of our trip at Fairmont Tremblant, a hotel that balances alpine grandeur with warm intimacy; dinner at Choux Gras glows with retro glamour, and we end the night with drinks in the village. On our last day Scandinave Spa Mont-Tremblant hits the spot with Nordic baths and a cold dip in Devil’s River, followed by a vineyard lunch at Rivière du Chêne.
Québec is more than a destination; it’s over one million square kilometres to explore and enjoy, and an invitation to immerse in land, flavour, and spirit. Each meal, each forest path, each glass of cider or wine tells the same story, that here, joie de vivre is not a phrase but a way of life.
To plan your Canada trip visit: canadanaturally.co.uk, Bonjour Québec, Tourism Montréal, Southern Québec and Tourism Laurentians.
