As snowfall continues to settle, cloaking the mountain peaks in white, the countdown to ski season is officially over. Today the world’s largest ski area, Les Trois Vallées, reopens its lifts for another unforgettable winter.
At its heart lies Méribel: warm, welcoming, and perfectly positioned for exploring the vast network of interlinking slopes. It’s the oldest resort in the area, set in a valley that naturally follows the sun and offers both north and south facing runs. Méribel is a destination for everyone, devoted to creating the kind of moments that linger in mind long after the snow melts. Bathed in daylight and framed by sweeping views of Mont Blanc and the surrounding Alps, the resort combines fair pricing, exceptional food and world-class winter sports, without a trace of ostentation.
What to do?
There is a terrain for every level, whether you’re confidently carving off-piste or still mastering the snow-plough. For Intermediate skiers looking to enhance their skills, and beginners starting out on the nursery slopes, the ESF Ski School is an ideal place to learn.
The school has dedicated, enclosed learning zones dotted around the resort, guided by expert instructors who seem to possess the patience of saints. Even I, someone who had never strapped on skis before, found myself gently winding down the slopes within days.
Lessons can be had one-to-one or in small groups, each with their own benefits: private sessions deliver personalised, in-depth guidance, while group lessons boost morale, and confidence, particularly comforting for first-timers.
ESF’s instructors are world-class, some having even completed in the Olympics. Their passion for the sport is visible, and you truly couldn’t be in better hands.
Then, there’s Cross-country skiing, offering a perfect change of pace if steep descents do not appeal. Even so, Méribel’s winter charm extends far beyond skiing. For something slower still, venture off the slopes and explore Méribel’s serene winter landscapes on foot.
Snowshoeing trails wind through the quiet altiport forest, where you can spot wildlife tracks and absorb the grandeur of the landscape. When the birds pause their song, the silence is so complete you could hear a pin drop. It’s a moment of profound stillness that remains a workout, but an immensely restorative one. Other activities include ice skating at the Olympic-size rink, winter sledding, horse riding, and plenty more.
Where to eat?
La Brizolée is a quintessential lunch stop. It’s an alpine refuge dressed in honeyed wood and soft light, with a sun-soaked terrace that looks straight out to Mont Vallon on blue-sky days. The restaurant sits just beside the slopes in Châtelet–Mottaret, an easy detour whether you ski-in or wander from the lift. The promise of warmth draws you in before you’ve even unbuckled your boots. Inside, the air carries the familiar scent of Savoyard cooking. Bubbling Raclette, rich Fondue, Pierre Chaude, Tartiflette, Mont d’Or, and generous local charcuterie. It’s mountain comfort at its best, perfect when you need a warm, hearty refuel.
For Dinner, Fifi restaurant offers an elegant break from classic Savoyard fare. The menu is Italian-inspired, with beautifully presented dishes including smoked duck breast on a bed of truffle risotto, classic mushroom gnocchi, and a velvety tiramisu.
Where to Stay?
A private chalet is often the go-to choice for an authentic ski retreat. However, a handful of hotels offer that same traditional charm, simply elevated with irresistible five-star luxuries. Expect decadent off-piste pampering, indulgent dining, and thoughtful touches, such as a concierge boot service that makes gearing up effortless.
Le Coucou makes a spectacular first impression. The hotel perches on the mountainside at the foot of the Rond-Point des Pistes, its tiered structure blending into the slope like a scattering of classic chalets. It provides ski-in, ski-out access straight from the boot room and an impressive layout spread across ten levels with the lobby on the seventh. Le Coucou feels monumental in scale yet intimate in experience.
Inside, a traditional Alpine aesthetic meets a playful contemporary spirit. As you step into the lobby, your gaze is immediately drawn upward to a whimsical blue-bird motif sweeping across the domed ceiling. The bold, dreamlike mural contrasts beautifully with the warm natural wood that embraces the space, setting the tone for the hotel’s story.
That narrative is woven through the entire property. Owls appear everywhere, from the lifts to the bedrooms, acting as a recurring design muse. With 130 site-specific furniture and lighting pieces, every detail feels intentional. The interior echos French architect and interior designer Pierre Yovanovitch’s signature style of geometry, colour, pattern, volume, angles and curves, all masterfully balanced. Cartoonish silhouettes and bold yet muted tones underpin the hotel a refined sense of play.
Reaching the private chalets within the hotel feels like a small adventure. A gentle maze of doors and lifts leads you to your own secluded hideaway. When I arrived, Françoise Hardy’s Le Temps de l’Amour floated through the air, a soundtrack that stayed with me throughout the trip. It set the tone and placed as my theme tune for the days of joyful adventure that I experienced.
Le Coucou has just two of these exquisite private chalets, Églantine and Éléonore. Each one is luxurious, cocoon-like, and designed for total relaxation. They’re independent yet connected to the hotel through a discreet interior passage. Spanning four floors, each chalet includes a kitchen, a play area, a private pool, spa, and a living room with sweeping mountain views. Clean minimalist lines and natural wood finishes meet maximalist murals, playful furnishings, and soft, muted palettes.
The visual delight doesn’t stop there. The hotel’s culinary scene raises the bar even higher. Le Coucou brings Ricardo Giraudi’s Beefbar to Méribel, serving some of the world’s finest cuts in a setting that feels both elegant and relaxed. It’s one of the hotel’s standout experiences.
Altogether, a private-home feeling is central to Le Coucou’s identity. Sophisticated comfort blends with laid-back Alpine charm, creating a stay that feels less like checking into a hotel and more like stepping into your own luxurious mountain story.
Visit Méribel
A winter trip to Méribel is always a good idea. Be it the lure of perfectly groomed pistes, long lunches of indulgent Alpine fare or simply the appeal of fresh mountain air. Méribel presents the best of a winter escape into one setting, as adventure and stillness sit side by side.
@lecoucoumeribel | lecoucoumeribel.com
464 Rte du Belvédère, 73550 Les Allues, France
