Floating Through Myth and Steam: A Restorative Retreat at Terme di Saturnia

Saturn’s Gift

According to ancient myth, the god Saturn – weary of mankind’s endless quarrels – lost his temper one day. In an act of divine frustration, he hurled a thunderbolt into the earth. From the crack sprang a river of warm, healing water that flowed over valleys and plains, blanketing all it touched in peace. The location of this mythic miracle? A tiny pocket of southern Tuscany now known as Terme di Saturnia.

This tale isn’t just charming folklore. The waters that emerged from Saturn’s celestial strike have bubbled uninterrupted since Etruscan times, when the area was known as Aurinia. The Romans, ever eager to claim divine provenance, renamed it Saturnia, and built baths on the very springs we still enjoy today. And while modern Saturnia has matured into a luxury thermal spa and golf resort, it hasn’t lost its connection to tranquillity – it’s simply refined it.


The Sacred Flow

At first glance, 5* Terme di Saturnia seems to have been carved directly from the landscape. Nestled among gentle hills and brushed with cypress trees, it’s a place where silence is but the presence of serenity. Central to the resort’s charm is its thermal spring – rich with minerals and certified for their therapeutic benefits – which is accessible from all sides of the hotel. There’s no need to fight for a corner or time your visit with precision; here, the warm waters swirl freely and generously.

Photo by Bruno Grassi

Floating is not just encouraged; it’s expected. Pool noodles are provided, allowing guests to fully recline into the embrace of the deep 37.5°C waters. On Friday evenings, the resort opens its pools late, offering a magical opportunity to drift under the stars in near silence. It’s hard to imagine a better way to wind down on a night in Tuscany.


The Vapour

The waters aren’t just a passive soak. At Terme di Saturnia, they take on multiple lives: as liquid in balneotherapy and the hydroponic treatments, as mineral-rich mud for detoxifying wraps, and in vapour form for deeply cleansing inhalation therapies. The resort’s spa – complimentary and thoroughly impressive – is home to a wooden dry sauna, steam room, plunge showers, and a series of tailored treatments that dip deeply into nature’s apothecary.

Highlights include Gommage+Thermal Plankton, a refined exfoliation using Saturnia’s own bioplankton – sourced directly from the spring, priming the skin for deeper absorption of the water’s healing properties. Then there’s Ulivitas, a sensory treatment combining micronised basil powder with olive oil to stimulate circulation and soothe aching muscles. It’s herbal, aromatic, and unexpectedly powerful.


Nightfall Drift

Despite the high-calibre wellness offerings, the atmosphere remains unpretentious. You might lounge in one of the many soft white robes – slippers included – with a Tuscan wine in hand, fresh from room service or the resort’s bar, which offers live music and smooth cocktails well into the night. The mood is grown-up, yet playfully indulgent.

The rooms themselves are quietly sophisticated. Think spacious beds – firm yet cloudlike. Many boast views over the private springs, where the sunset stretches soft pinks and golds across the water.


Fireside Flavours

Dining is another highlight. At 1919 – the resort’s signature restaurant, named for the hotel’s founding – you can enjoy dinner with the springs as your backdrop. Dishes like seared octopus with parsley potatoes or veal tartare with burrata and herring caviar are both rooted in local tradition and lightly adventurous. Mezzemaniche alla “Puttanesca” with seafood is rich but not heavy, while roast lamb loin with broad beans evokes rustic Tuscan kitchens. And don’t skip dessert: the Manciano ricotta mousse with chestnuts and gianduja ice cream might convert the most loyal tiramisù fan.

For a change of pace, La Stellata sits on the edge of the resort, either a stroll or a short shuttle ride away. Rustic in spirit and warm in welcome, it’s ideal for sampling cured Cinta Senese pork with pecorino, or diving into hand-cut pappardelle with wild boar ragù. If you’re feeling bold (and hungry), the fire-grilled steaks, ordered by the kilo – are a decadent centrepiece.


Paths Beyond the Pools

Though the resort itself is temptation enough to stay put, the surrounding area is worth exploring. A short walk away lies Le Cascate del Mulino, a cascading natural spring beloved by locals. Just beyond, vineyards such as Val di Terme offer tastings and lazy lunches, often in the company of napping cats and sun-drenched terraces. For day trips, the cinematic Tuscan views of Pitigliano and Orvieto are both easily reached by car.

Photo by Iain Phillips

It’s worth noting that the resort includes an 18-hole golf course – thoughtfully designed not to disturb the spa’s calm. It remains hidden from the rooms, restaurants, and the long, looping entrance drive, proving that wellness and sport can indeed coexist without competing.


A Constellation

Terme di Saturnia is an invitation to pause. To surrender. Whether you come with your family, a partner, a book, or a full calendar of spa appointments, what you’ll find here is not just rest, but a rare, enveloping sense of peace – the kind Saturn might have hoped for when he cracked the earth open in search of silence.

Photo by Giulio Pugliese

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